Tekst objavljen u Press magazinu 17.5.2009
Već danima mi je tesna koža a patike već zajahale put. Imam problem da telo i duh sastavim, jesam ovde a i nisam... Konačno je došao i taj dan, krenuo sam. I to nespreman, kao i uvek. Ne može se nikad dovoljno pripremiti za veliki put. Do poslednjeg trenutka nisam bio siguran na koju ću stranu. Ni sada ne znam kuda ću dalje. Opcije su bezbrojne. Putevi sa svih strana dozivaju.
Moji roditelji su navikli da uvek putujem sam. Nije to iz nekog hira, već više iz nužde. Navikao sam na veoma naporan tempo, često noćim napolju, jedem usput. Hodam, upoznajem i obilazim zemlju bez prestanka. Moji saputnici brzo odustaju, malaksaju, očekuju od putovanja odmor a ne naporan rad. Sistematsko upoznavanje planete nikako nije letovanje. Kad kažem da idem na dvogodišnji put mnogo komentarišu kako ću se dobro odmoriti. Znam da ću se svetski umoriti.
Međutim ovo je prvi put da na ovoliko dugačak put krećem bez češćih pauza i dobrim delom automobilom. Strahovi mojih roditelja su opravdani, kao i Ruzveltov stav da čovek jedino treba da se plaši - straha. Najviše se brinu da me neko ne napadne, ne opljačka... već se to događalo. Ladu Nivu sam izabrao nadajući se da neće biti primamljiva meta.
Krenuo sam rano, između pet i šest sati ujutru. Volim da izađem daleko od grada pre gužve i da vozim dok na ulicama još nema nikoga. Do podne već mogu da obiđem nekoliko mesta i dan iskoristim do maksimuma. Adrenalin me sam budi pre zore.
Kada sam spokojno zajahao Ladu i krenuo da se isparkiram shvatio sam da na suvozačevom mestu sedi zgodna plavuša! Mislio sam da ću na put ići sam, međutim roditelji su mi nametnuli Milevu i sada se vozam Evropom sa njom. Šetkam se okolo, zavirujem svuda a ona nezainteresovono ostaje u kolima. Ne zanimaju svakog iste stvari. Ne mogu da se požalim, sjajan je saputnik, ne prigovara na moju vožnju, ma ne prigovara uopšte. Ume da odćuti ma šta joj rekao i ima sjajnu vrlinu da me do kraja sasluša.
Moram priznati da sam već došao u iskušenje da je zbog svih tih divnih i neuobičajenih ženskih osobina prijateljski zagrlim i poljubim, garantujem da me ne bi odgurnula. Ali možda baš zbog toga sam odustao, eh ko će nama muškarcima udovoljiti.
Ima proporcije manekenke, prekrasne plave oči i ponosito držanje. Slovenija je prvo mesto gde ću zanoćiti. Siguran sam da će moji rođaci biti iznenađeni što nisam sam ali ništa nisam hteo da najavljujem. Teorija „svršenog čina“ je kao moj rusak koji svuda vučem sa sobom. Neće Milevi smetati i ako zanoći u kolima, čak mislim da je to i najbolje rešenje pa taman izazivala mušku populaciju slovenačkih noćobdija. Ako neko od njih pređe granicu pristojnosti, hm, biće zasigurno iznenađen i pamtiće crvenu ladu sa beogradskim tablicama a prepričavaće se, zasigurno i širinom i dužinom „domžele“.
Naime, moja majka je na televiziji nedavno gledala kako u skandinavskim zemljama kažnjavaju vozače kada voze sami tokom saobraćajnog špica, zbog velikog zagađenja i neekonomičnosti. Kako je ljudska rasa neprevaziđena u idejama kako izbeći kaznu, vozači su se dosetili da kupe lutku iz seksi šopa, obuku je, stave na suvozačevo sedište, vežu pojas i daju gas. Sami nisu, to je sigurno.
U strepnji što putujem sam, bar da odvratim eventualne pljačkaše, nabaviše mi Milevu, po ugledu na napred opisane. Vrlo je pouzdana, ne troši vreme, ne troši novac, verna do pucanja i sto posto zdrava. Uzalud sam se branio, pretio da će završiti u prvom jarku kada im odem iz vidokruga, da će policija i ostali smatrati da sam perverzan, da mi možda neko baš opljačka auto da bi na nju navalio, kao jedan tip u Austriji što je opljačkao seksi šop da bi ljubavisao sa tri lutke istovremeno... ništa baš ništa nije pomoglo. „Kad može Evropa, možeš i ti“ rekao mi je otac i eto meni Evrope u kolima, sa pravim srpskim imenom.......... Moja Mileva.
Pre nego što sam krenuo ka bratskoj Sloveniji, otputovao sam do Kosmeta. Moj prijatelj, Thomas Koening, američki profesor, doveo je u Srbiju grupu od 15 američkih studenata. Rešeni su da se malo bolje upoznaju sa problemom Kosmeta. Mene je zamolio da ih odvedem na sever, suprotno upozorenjima njihovih pretpostavljenih da je sever apsolutno nebezbedan gde Srbi stalno prave izgrede. Svima koji žele da slušaju, a ovi Amerikanci su izrazili veliku dozu razumevanja za stavove svih strana, želeo sam da prikažem istinu, kao i bol i jad srpskih enlava. Za mene lično je bio fenomenalan osećaj da vodim turu sa licencom srpskog turističkog vodiča i držim predavanje o Kosovskom boju na Gazimestananu, okružen albanskim selima sa seksi lutkom u autu.
Moj tekst o Kosmetu koji se u delovima objavljuje u jednom italjanskom magazinu na engleskom, španskom i italijanskom jeziku, sa najvećom pažnjom su pročitali. U tom magazinu je to takođe postao najčitaniji tekst. Ljudi malo znaju o stvarima o kojima raspravljaju i odlučuju. Na žalost, o Kosovu najmanje znaju Srbi. Smatram da nisam mogao da izaberem bolje i simboličnije mesto za početak mog istraživanja planete od Kosova i Metohije, jedinstvenog i veličanstvenog kulturnog blaga ali i bola koje sa njim ide.
sobota, 16. maj 2009
Doktori, Tito i Slovenci
Tekst objavljen u Press magazinu 10.5.2009
Za prvu turu putovanja – Evropa, Rusija, Filipini, Indonezija, Australija – nisu mi potrebne vakcine. Međutim, nije zgored pred takvu Odiseju ipak proveriti zdravlje. Pored regularnog opšteg pregleda, odlučio sam se i za test na sve moguće seksualno prenosive bolesti. Prošlog oktobra je moje predavanje o liku i delu Josipa Broza u Amsterdamu oduševilo Holanđane ali i Holanđanke. Ne znam da li su zablistale moje govorničke sposobnosti ili priča o Titu (o kome oni ne znaju ama baš bišta sem da je bio predsednik SFRJ i da je bio baja), tek veče posle predavanja sam završio u zagrljaju visoke, ko od brega odvaljene, prirodne plavuše. Imao sam pune ruke posla, no, pred vrhunac večeri mi je tražila sertifikat – da nemam seksualno prenosive bolesti! Izvadila je svoje uverenje, turnula mi pod nos, i, pre nego što se igra nastavi dalje, očekuje da iz džepa izvadim sličnu potvrdu.
Tada sam se nekako izvukao. Međutim, nije prestala da na sertifikatu insistira, pa sam sad odlučio da, kud kontrolišem sve drugo, proverim i to. Šalu na stranu, smatram da se veličina nacije ogleda i odnosu svakog pojedinca prema svom zdravlju. U današnjem svetu velike interakcije (čitaj: gde zaskače ko koga stigne) a sa mnoštvom boleština koje se šire brže i smrtonosnije nego ikad pre, imperativ je modernog čoveka da svoje zdravlje čuva kao najveću svetinju. Spokojan, krenuo sam da dam krv prvi put u domu zdravlja. Radoznalost je ubila mačku, pa zamalo da i ja nastradam – želeo sam da gledam kako ubada iglu u venu. Pošto doktorka nije mogla da nađe venu, iglom je rovarila po unutrašnjosti kože. Nisam ni primetio da mi se toliko slošilo – tek njena koleginica je prokomentarisala da sam strašno beo, dotrčala je do mene, poprskala me vodom i oborila na krevet. Čovek uvek iz pogrešnih razloga završi u krevetu.
Jedva sam uspeo da dam urin posle takvog stresa. Zatim sam otišao u sledeću ambulantu da ponovo izvadim krv za drugi tip laboratorijskih nalaza. Zatim je došao na red bris uretre. Au! Bolje da o ovome ne pišem. Srećom bio sam poučen iskustvom sa vađenjem krvi pa nisam hteo da gledam. Doktorka je tri veoma dugačka štapa zabila tamo gde nisam ni sanjao da se štapovi mogu zabiti – u polni organ, činilo mi se, sve do želuca! Od svih teško stečenih diploma, ova je bila najbolnija.
Zvali me je zamenica ambasadora republike Slovenije, Jadranka Šturm, zbog mog teksta o (ne) ljubaznosti njihovih službenika. Razgovor se kretao od optužbe da nisam doneo svu potrebnu dokumentaciju za vizu, što nije tačno, do izvinjenja. Drago mi je da je ambasada ipak reagovala, jer ne radi se o meni – ja uvek mogu da dobijem vizu neke druge zemlje Šengen prostora pa da sa njom posetim Sloveniju. Pogodilo me je ponašanje prema ljudima koji su došli iz udaljenih krajeva Srbije i za koje je vađenje vize velika avantura i cimanje, a koji, ako nisu zaslužili osmeh, nisu zaslužili ni bahatost. Gospođa Šturm me je obavestila da ambasada Slovenije ima najveći broj zahteva za vizu u Beogradu (?) i da su po anketama njihovi klijenti veoma zadovoljni. U redakciju Press-a se posle mog teksta javilo desetak ljudi koji su moju priču potvrdili. Izvinjenje prihvatam, a siguran sam da će i svi drugi. Bitno je da oni koji su sebi dozvolili takvo ponašanje budu kažnjeni.
Još jedno iznenađenje moja država mi je priredila u Kući cveća. Ovog puta sam, kao licencirani turistički vodič, tamo vodio nekoliko gostiju. Do skoro je ulaz bio besplatan. Sada je neko rešio da na Titu zaradi (što i nije tako loša ideja), a, bogami i da nadoknadi sve što nije zarađeno. Od koga uzeti novac ako ne od naših građana?Tako je odlučeno da ulaznicu u ovaj muzej moraju da plate svi, invalidi, borci, đaci osnovci... Invalidi su se pobunili kao i borci, napravili su pometnju u medijima i to je promenjeno. Zato sada naplaćuju ulaz turističkim vodičima! Ja koji njima dovodim turiste, koji tu poslovno dolazim nekoliko puta mesečno praveći njima profit i radeći na promociji Srbije, treba da platim ulaznicu? Svaka čast, Srbijo. Što se tiče Tita, verujem da se on zajedno sa hiljadama bitnih ličnosti naše istorije još odavno kao cirkuska vrteška prevrće u grobu.
Za prvu turu putovanja – Evropa, Rusija, Filipini, Indonezija, Australija – nisu mi potrebne vakcine. Međutim, nije zgored pred takvu Odiseju ipak proveriti zdravlje. Pored regularnog opšteg pregleda, odlučio sam se i za test na sve moguće seksualno prenosive bolesti. Prošlog oktobra je moje predavanje o liku i delu Josipa Broza u Amsterdamu oduševilo Holanđane ali i Holanđanke. Ne znam da li su zablistale moje govorničke sposobnosti ili priča o Titu (o kome oni ne znaju ama baš bišta sem da je bio predsednik SFRJ i da je bio baja), tek veče posle predavanja sam završio u zagrljaju visoke, ko od brega odvaljene, prirodne plavuše. Imao sam pune ruke posla, no, pred vrhunac večeri mi je tražila sertifikat – da nemam seksualno prenosive bolesti! Izvadila je svoje uverenje, turnula mi pod nos, i, pre nego što se igra nastavi dalje, očekuje da iz džepa izvadim sličnu potvrdu.
Tada sam se nekako izvukao. Međutim, nije prestala da na sertifikatu insistira, pa sam sad odlučio da, kud kontrolišem sve drugo, proverim i to. Šalu na stranu, smatram da se veličina nacije ogleda i odnosu svakog pojedinca prema svom zdravlju. U današnjem svetu velike interakcije (čitaj: gde zaskače ko koga stigne) a sa mnoštvom boleština koje se šire brže i smrtonosnije nego ikad pre, imperativ je modernog čoveka da svoje zdravlje čuva kao najveću svetinju. Spokojan, krenuo sam da dam krv prvi put u domu zdravlja. Radoznalost je ubila mačku, pa zamalo da i ja nastradam – želeo sam da gledam kako ubada iglu u venu. Pošto doktorka nije mogla da nađe venu, iglom je rovarila po unutrašnjosti kože. Nisam ni primetio da mi se toliko slošilo – tek njena koleginica je prokomentarisala da sam strašno beo, dotrčala je do mene, poprskala me vodom i oborila na krevet. Čovek uvek iz pogrešnih razloga završi u krevetu.
Jedva sam uspeo da dam urin posle takvog stresa. Zatim sam otišao u sledeću ambulantu da ponovo izvadim krv za drugi tip laboratorijskih nalaza. Zatim je došao na red bris uretre. Au! Bolje da o ovome ne pišem. Srećom bio sam poučen iskustvom sa vađenjem krvi pa nisam hteo da gledam. Doktorka je tri veoma dugačka štapa zabila tamo gde nisam ni sanjao da se štapovi mogu zabiti – u polni organ, činilo mi se, sve do želuca! Od svih teško stečenih diploma, ova je bila najbolnija.
Zvali me je zamenica ambasadora republike Slovenije, Jadranka Šturm, zbog mog teksta o (ne) ljubaznosti njihovih službenika. Razgovor se kretao od optužbe da nisam doneo svu potrebnu dokumentaciju za vizu, što nije tačno, do izvinjenja. Drago mi je da je ambasada ipak reagovala, jer ne radi se o meni – ja uvek mogu da dobijem vizu neke druge zemlje Šengen prostora pa da sa njom posetim Sloveniju. Pogodilo me je ponašanje prema ljudima koji su došli iz udaljenih krajeva Srbije i za koje je vađenje vize velika avantura i cimanje, a koji, ako nisu zaslužili osmeh, nisu zaslužili ni bahatost. Gospođa Šturm me je obavestila da ambasada Slovenije ima najveći broj zahteva za vizu u Beogradu (?) i da su po anketama njihovi klijenti veoma zadovoljni. U redakciju Press-a se posle mog teksta javilo desetak ljudi koji su moju priču potvrdili. Izvinjenje prihvatam, a siguran sam da će i svi drugi. Bitno je da oni koji su sebi dozvolili takvo ponašanje budu kažnjeni.
Još jedno iznenađenje moja država mi je priredila u Kući cveća. Ovog puta sam, kao licencirani turistički vodič, tamo vodio nekoliko gostiju. Do skoro je ulaz bio besplatan. Sada je neko rešio da na Titu zaradi (što i nije tako loša ideja), a, bogami i da nadoknadi sve što nije zarađeno. Od koga uzeti novac ako ne od naših građana?Tako je odlučeno da ulaznicu u ovaj muzej moraju da plate svi, invalidi, borci, đaci osnovci... Invalidi su se pobunili kao i borci, napravili su pometnju u medijima i to je promenjeno. Zato sada naplaćuju ulaz turističkim vodičima! Ja koji njima dovodim turiste, koji tu poslovno dolazim nekoliko puta mesečno praveći njima profit i radeći na promociji Srbije, treba da platim ulaznicu? Svaka čast, Srbijo. Što se tiče Tita, verujem da se on zajedno sa hiljadama bitnih ličnosti naše istorije još odavno kao cirkuska vrteška prevrće u grobu.
torek, 5. maj 2009
Saradnik SANU kreće na put oko sveta
Tekst o Viktoru, koji je izašao u Politici 5.5.2009
Dvadesetčetvorogodišnji Viktor Lazić je upravo diplomirao na beogradskom Pravnom fakultetu, a sada uči za automehaničara. Ne zato što kao diplomirani pravnik ne može da nađe posao, već zato što uskoro ide na put oko sveta, i to la„dom nivom” koju su mu poklonili roditelji, jer je diplomirao u roku sa prosekom iznad osam.
Ne želim na putu da trošim novac za popravku kola, zato nosim i vreću delova za automobil. Posetiću 70 zemalja. Krstariću Evropom, ali ću ići i u Japan, na Filipine, u Indoneziju, Australiju, Novi Zeland, Južnu Ameriku, na Karipska ostrva, Antarktik, u zapadnu Afriku. Samo deo puta ću preći svojom la„dom nivom”, a u druge krajeve ću ići avionom, autobusom, autostopom, brodom... Celo putešestvije trajaće dve godine kaže Viktor koji će na ovom putovanju kao spoljni saradnik Geografskog instituta Srpske akademije nauka i umethosti, na terenu prikupljati podatke za projekat iz oblasti ekološke geografije.
U nekim od zemalja koje su na njegovoj maršruti na putu oko sveta Viktor je već boravio. Do sada je zapravo bio u 40 država. Nije u pitanju samo njegov nemirni i tragalački duh, već i želja da se što bolje pripremi za budući poziv. Ovaj mladić namerava da upiše doktorske studije i da potom radi u diplomatiji.
Nedavno je bio veoma aktivan u borbi protiv cenzurisanja beseda na đačkim takmičenjima. Poznat je i po tome što se bori da u svet izađe istina o Kosovu. Organizovao je, između ostalog, dve akcije za srpsko stanovništvo u toj pokrajini. Sakupio je 15.520 evra za 24 tamošnje biblioteke i upriličio je humanitarni koncert Osmeh na dar”.
U međuvremenu su ovom mladiću objavljene dve knjige putopisa, a uskoro će svetlost dana ugledati i treća pod nazivom Ho„danje Sumatrom”. Odlično govori engleski i nemački. Ima licencu za prevodioca za engleski jezik i član je Udruženja naučnih i stručnih prevodioca Srbije. Poseduje i licencu za turističkog vodiča, kao i licencu za ronioce koju je stekao u Bruneji. Srpsko bibliofilsko društvo izabralo ga je za svog ambasadora u inostranstvu.
Viktorova kućna biblioteka broji 22.000 knjiga. Dobar deo tih naslova je nasleđen.
Nameravam da otvorim književni klub. U okviru toga biće poseban odeljak putničke literature koju čine i knjige donete iz Indonezije, Kine, Uzbekistana, Malezije, poput budističkih molitvenika sa koricama od kamena, knjiga na štapićima od bambusa ili štampanih na papiru od pirinča sa koricama od svile... U Indoneziji sam za magijsku knjigu sa koricama od kostiju dao 65.000 rupija što iznosi pet evra objašnjava naš sagovornik.
U Maleziji, na Tajlandu i u Indoneziji išao je i u džungle, provodio vreme sa domorodačkim plemenima. Upoznao njihov način života. Na Sumatri je bio gost plemena Minangkabau čiji su pripadnici muslimanske veroispovesti.
Sva plemena koja sam upoznao imaju rituale za ozdravljenje i bacanje čini. Veruju da čudovišta upravljaju vulkanima. Zato postoje porodice koje vekovima čuvaju vulkane i udovoljavaju im izvodeći specijalne rituale. U Indoneziji veruju da vulkani prorade kada su političari korumpirani. Na Sumatri sam se družio i sa piratima koji preko dana rade nešto drugo, recimo predaju u školi, ali noću napadaju i pljačkaju brodove u moreuzu između Sumatre i Malezije. Prošao sam i obuku za gusare, ali u pljačku nisam išao priča svoje dosadašnje doživljaje Viktor Lazić.
ponedeljek, 4. maj 2009
Kosovo, The Serbian Story
Marta je u italijanskoj web reviji Amnezija Vivace, Viktor objavijo svoj prvi članak o istoriji Kosova na engleskom. Sa zadovoljstvom vam javljam, da je to postao najčitaniji web članak. Članak sastoji iz treh delova. Sada je objavljen tek prvi, a uskoro će biti objavljen i drugi i treći.
Serbia is the only country in Europe whose center of cultural and historical identity declared to be another country and even received some recognition and support.
This conflict raised many questions throughout the world and became a popular discussion topic. Yet, a Serbian view on it is very rarely heard and explained in the west. As one of many Serbs whose family was forced to leave Kosovo, though mine moved out long time ago, I developed a special interest in the subject.
Explaining a conflict that lasts for centuries is a very hard task. I will try to give a deeper insight into the Serbian side of the story, hoping that it will shine some light on the very complex cultural, social and historical development of the ongoing problem. In complex regions where historical flows created a current situation, it is unjust to think that anything can be understood, explained or solved without in-depth knowledge of history. In fact, foreign "advisors" who had no real knowledge of the region but had enough influence to decide upon its future, always proved to be very good problem makers.
Going deep into history and cultural science is my favorite hobby, but in case of Kosovo it is an impossible task. Its history and cultural relations are just as complex as those of Jerusalem or Rome. Writing its past in a summary is not only impossible, but for sure it wouldn't be fair to the generations that lived on this territory for centuries nor to the history itself. Writing about Kosovo and not including some historical background is like writing about France and forgetting to mention Paris. Therefore in this, first part, I will describe overall importance of Kosovo for Serbian identity, its older history and cultural heritage. Second chapter will deal with issue of uncontrolled immigration that created Kosovo's today's demographic picture and the question of war crimes and role of Miloševic.
Third chapter will be about present day life of ordinary people. Fourth chapter will be about legal questions concerning independence issue and my view of importance of compromise in order to reach a lasting solution.
I am writing this article with the hope that it will bring more understanding to the region that really needs it. I do hope that the future of Serbia and Kosovo is where it belongs historically, geographically and in every other way - in Europe. But Europe needs to show more understanding for this serious problem. It needs to listen to all sides and push them to the compromise; unilateral solutions never brought an end to any conflict in the world.
History and cultural heritage
When it comes to Kosovo, the USA ambassador said that for them the history of the Balkans starts in the 1990s and with Milosevic. For Iraqis, perhaps, the American history starts with one Bush and ends with another. But we all know that nothing in the real world is black and white like in old cowboy movies. We all should know by now that the bad guys from those same movies aren't the Indians.
Kosovo is the heart of Serbia. That sentence has much more meaning than being just another phrase. The Serbian state was born in Kosovo, it was raised in Kosovo and was very connected to it at all times. It's not only Kosovo as a territory (1) that matters, but its meaning; a civilization and culture created by one nation which is connected to "Kosovo" as a metaphysical term. It is the soul of a nation and its country. Serbia was and is still creating itself in Kosovo, starting from the early middle ages until today. Kosovo is indispensable for Serbia just as Rome was for the Roman Empire, Paris for France and Israel for Jews. It needs to be emphasized that Kosovo's exact borders or territorial scope aren't the most important in the complexity of its meaning.
In the past the term Kosovo was used only for a big field and territory around it, less than one fourth of what we today consider to be "Kosovo". The south of today's "Kosovo" was known as "Metohia" since ancient times (2). Metoh is a Greek word, meaning land of the church. During centuries of Serbian rule, it became a tradition that every king or nobleman builds a monastery or a church in "old Serbia". Religious buildings were centers of art, culture and education; they were the beating heart of the nation. Today in Kosovo and Metohia there are 1.996 churches or other important Serbian monuments on a territory roughly the size of greater Rome (3).
Most of those monuments are from the middle ages (4), many are protected as UNESCO World Heritage (Gracanica, Decani, Holy Virgine of Ljeviš etc). Their beauty, their historical, cultural and emotional importance for Serbs, but also for the world is indescribable. The most important monasteries are considered to be in line with the most significant European art works of the time. They are a true miracle of human hand and God's presence - A piece of Heaven on Earth. Whenever a church or monastery was built, it was considered a basic deed and obligation of its founder to give it a certain amount of funds, including the territory.
In Metohia (roughly 1/2 of Kosovo) between 80 and 90 % of the territory was officially owned by the Serbian Orthodox Church - until 1946 when the Communists decided to "nationalize" (read: steal) all of its property together with the property of all the richest Serbs and to give it to poor Albanians, mostly refuges from Albania. In all eastern European countries property that was taken away in this kind of manner was given back to its original owners or their ancestors during the 1990s. But not in Kosovo. The historical importance of Kosovo can also be seen by the fact that most of the Serbian capital cities in history were placed in Kosovo. The first one from the 9th century, Ras, also part of UNESCO heritage, is placed on Kosovo's administrative border with Serbia. Some of those cities were the biggest capitals of Middle Age Europe and important centers of European civilization at the time (Novo Brdo, Priština, Prizren).
When Serbia was one of the most powerful and among richest countries in Europe (5) - in 1389, a Muslim invasion from Asia Minor followed. Serbian noblemen understood that no one else but them in whole Europe could stop, what they saw as a threat to Christianity. They decided to sacrifice (6) and to lead a huge defending crusade led by "Emperor Lazar Hrebeljanovic (7).
The legend says that Lazar was offered by God a choice between "a kingdom in Heaven" and "kingdom on Earth". Lazar decided to become a martyr gaining the most important title of all: defender of Christianity, a Gods soldier. It was decided that the battle would happen in the heart of Serbia - Kosovo field. To show his obedience to God Lazar built a small church on the field (8) and, as the legend says, ordered that its foundations are made out of the most expensive materials; silk and silver (9). Lazar requested that each soldier is blessed by priest before the battle in front of this church. The fight that happened became an important part of Serbian religion. Many of the soldiers and nobleman that took part in it became Serbian saints, Lazar being one of most important saints in Serbian religion today. For Serbian nation, story about Lazar and his soldiers grew to the level of biblical importance.
Lazar did not gather the army in the common way for that time; instead he sent a curse that "whoever is a Serb or has a Serbian blood in him and does not come to fight at Kosovo", for Serbia and Christianity, should not have any luck in whatever business; should die in greatest misery and "rotten"; same thing should happen to all of his posterity. Curses had huge influence in the Middle Ages, but this one is seen as everlasting call to Christians and Serbs, and many take it seriously even today. Legends speak of soldiers who came to fight when the battle was already over, but attacked the retreating Muslim army anyway even though it was equal to the suicide; servants who were ordered by Lazar to stay in the castle didn't obey their orders and went to fight because "they couldn't resist their heart".
However, Milos Obilic, a famous hero of the time, was falsely accused of betrayal. Allegedly he was seen talking to Muslim delegation that offered him huge amount of gold and silver to change the side. Lazar saw him as another sign of God, as his own Judas; therefore he decided to forgive him on the eve of the battle and even reward him with golden cup, drinking for his health. Miloš responded angrily, swearing to God and giving his word that he will personally kill Murat, the Muslim Emperor, to prove his loyalty. At the beginning of the battle Miloš surrendered to the Muslims, and as a known hero, was asked to kiss his foot of Murat, proving his obedience. Instead, he took a poisoned knife and killed the Emperor. He was caught immediately and beheaded. When Lazar was captured and brought to the dying Murat, he saw Miloš's head that was put on the pile. In chains, seconds before his head was cut off, Lazar proclaimed a victory - a moral and spiritual one (10).
More than two thirds of all Serbian men (11), including the Serbian king and most of the noblemen, died in the horrifying battle that is seen as a milestone of Serbian history, mentality and national being. The Muslim army suffered severe loses as well. The invasion was stopped, the bells of the Notre Dame in Paris and those of the cathedrals in Venice and Milan celebrated Christian victory for days (12). After the Muslim army retreated, it came back to Serbia only 70 years later.
After the Kosovo battle a seed of renaissance and humanism was already felt in dying Serbia, before it appeared in Italy. The new Serbian prince, Lazars son, a child at the time of the battle, wrote poems with love as its theme. But when the Muslims came back (13), there wasn't a man left in Serbia to fight them. The Golden Centuries of the Serbian state were over, fallen in the name of Christianity and Europe. And it was overthrown by the worst of the time, "barbarians", wild Asian tribes (mostly Turkish and Mongol) who were destroying and robbing everything on their way. As one Serbian monk wrote down: "The times came when the living started to envy those who have died". Serbian churches were robbed, blood tax was introduced (14), Serbs were banned from writing, schools and hospitals. To remember the nations' history and traditions, the Serbs created folk songs of very high literature value. Those songs incorporate a lot of historical information, advises and legends (15). Scholars compare them to Iliad and Odyssey. They were translated to German by Goethe and to Russian by Pushkin. Most of those songs are about the Kosovo battle and post battle life and fights. The cruelty of the Muslim rule was crowned by the tower that they built out of Serbian heads in city of Niš on the main road to Constantinople (16).
Serbs celebrate the day when the battle happened (St. Vitus day, 28th of June) as their most important holiday. Few hundred people run from Belgrade to Kosovo field every year to mark the anniversary. The Serbian nation divides its history and literature to "pre Kosovo (17)", "Kosovo" and "after Kosovo". It is a day when, old traditions say, at midnight all rivers in Kosovo become red for a second because that's how much Serbian blood was spilled on that ground. It is believed that a special sort of peony that grows in Kosovo today grew out of the blood - red one from Serbian, blue one from Muslim.
St. Vitus day is a day when Serbs should not be provoked due to high emotional sensitivity. Not too many people know that Gavrilo Princip killed France Ferdinand in 1914 in Sarajevo and gave the casus belli for First World War because the Austrian prince decided to have military exercises and to march through Serbian areas to demonstrate power over Serbs weakness on - 28th of June.
Importance of Kosovo for Serbian nation can be clearly seen even from every day common expressions, such as: "For him everything is flat - up to Kosovo" - used to describe someone's apathy or carelessness; "St. Vitus day will come again and we will see who has faith and who does not" - time will come when people's virtues will be tested again; similar to the Judgment day from the Bible, used when some injustice is done or when someone pretends to be a hero; Kosovo girl - girl with extremely bad luck, Obilic - symbol of heroism, "Marko came late to Kosovo" - when someone missed important opportunity etc.
S. Archangeli monastery.
The oldest and the nicest mosque (18), one of rare Muslim monuments in Kosovo, was built during the 16th century out of stone of a destructed Serbian monastery nearby. Today all the Serbian churches and monasteries are under direct jurisdiction of the Serbian Orthodox Church (SPC) with special status. If we imagine Kosovo being a state, then SPC is a state inside it. This has a long tradition in Serbian history - during many centuries of Muslim occupation and terror, a Serbian state did not exist. But the monasteries, the priests took over the role of state, led and took care of its people in peace and war, organized secret schools but also rebellions, always having a Kosovo story as central part in the national awareness and inspiration for many generations not to forget its roots but also to fight the invaders. Even today many Serbs traditionally believe its church more than its state and will turn to SPC for help and comfort, especially in the turbulent times. Serbian strongest cultural and social centers through Kosovo are all within monasteries.
Serbian national heritage in Kosovo is under constant attack; Albanians destroyed 156 Serbian churches and monasteries and robbed or vandalized almost twice that number since 1999 (19). These attacks are sometimes very organized, the most famous was on the 17th of March 2004 when in only one day 39 Serbian monasteries were attacked of which 35 were badly damaged and some were leveled to the ground. One of those monasteries was the Holy Virgine of Ljevis in the city of Prizren (20), a UNESCO protected site.
Podujevo
Thousands of international troops were watching this, only a few Italian and Romanian battalions reacted on time. The Seat of the Serbian church organization, a spiritual center often called "the Serbian Vatican", Patriarchate of Pec, also UNESCO site and a female monastery, was under attack as well (21). The monastery is part of the Italian military sector; during riots in 2004 the Italian general told the nuns that he and his soldiers are aware of the importance of the site for Serbian and European civilization and that they will defend it with their lives if needed. Since that event, by the request of the Serbian Orthodox Church, Italian soldiers are dominant in the organizing of the defense and guarding of the Serbian cultural heritage throughout Kosovo.
Mitrovica
At the same time, Albanian politicians are fighting very hard to have the Serbian cultural heritage renamed to "Kosovo Cultural Heritage". These are the same people that organized its destruction. Their reasons are simple: control of territory (22) and remaining Serbs but also the income from tourists and Serbian pilgrims.
All important Serbian monasteries in Kosovo are under heavy military protection. In fact they look like real military bases. Before entering the monastery guests have to pass through special controls, checkpoints and registrations. The level of controls makes the entry to the cultural heritage site similar to the entry to a nuclear power plant elsewhere in the world. A good example is Monastery of St. Archangels near Prizren, another UNESCO heritage site, which was destroyed in 2004; I visited it in November 2008. There are more than 100 meters of protective military equipment in front of its gates, including the barricades on the river bank that is separating the land of the monastery from the main road. On the back of the monastery is a cliff and there are military installations and guards on top of it. A special approval from the monks is needed for entering. After getting military approval as well to pass a corridor of barb wires, barricades and several heavily armed vehicles, there is another checkpoint; passports are checked and have to be left at the military command office until departure; a special "red visitor card" is issued. Only then a new set of barb wires and iron gates in front of the monastery are opened.
In a bombed church
All this in the heart of Serbia. In the heart of Europe. Even more so, it seems to be silently supported by European politicians who blindly ignore the sad reality, proclaiming Kosovo to be their partner, a democratic and safe country. The level of democracy, freedom and safety in Kosovo can be easily measured. I believe that it is equal to the number of tanks and soldiers plus the length of barb wires needed to protect the cultural heritage sites.
Next chapters:
II. Problem of uncontrolled immigration
III. Genocide question and Milosevics rule
Note
[1] In today's borders it exists for less than 50 years.
[2] The official name of Kosovo in Serbian is Autonomous Province Kosovo and Metohia or shorter Kosmet.
[3] Kosovo has 10,800 sq km and less than two million inhabitants.
[4] Most of them were built between 10th and 14th century. Only one Serbian king that lived in 14th century, Milutin, built forty monasteries, one for each year of his rule (rumors add one wife per monastery as well).
[5] The Serbian Golden Ages roughly coincide to the Dark ages in the Western Europe, and vice versa.
[6] Serbian rulers were offered by Muslims to remain in power but to allow the Muslim army to enter and give a portion of gathered taxes to them.
[7] For some time Serbia was an Empire. However, Emperor Lazar was never an emperor and held a title of Prince, but because of his historical role the Serbian nation calls him Emperor.
[8] Its name was Samodreza, "Self standing", living on its own. It was destroyed several times by Muslims; its reconstruction was leveled to the ground several years ago.
[9] Symbolically putting his material wealth beneath the spiritual one. Silver that was found in Kosovo mines was foundation of Serbian century long richness; silver is a symbol of royal power. The church itself was small and built of stone.
[10] We do not know this for sure; I am not keeping only to the proven historical facts but describing the way that Kosovo fight is seen by the people, including its myths and legends that are often of high religious importance.
[11] There are no exact proves of number of neither victims nor number of soldiers engaged in combat. Historians claim that proportion was 3:1 in favor of the Muslims, regardless what the exact numbers are. For Serbs coming back from the battle alive was seen by many as an act of betrayal. A symbol of betrayal for Serbs is Vuk Brankovic, nobleman who survived the battle and did not accept a rule of Lazars wife after it, but in fact fought very bravely and few decades later died in Ottoman prison.
[12] It was and is believed that without the Serbian sacrifice Muslim soldiers would come to the doors of Paris and Rome.
[13] This article is simplified in order to give very basic insight to history. In reality during those 70 years the relations between Serbia and Ottoman Empire were very complex. Serbia was left without a king and without most of its nobility (captured nobleman begged Ottoman Emperor to execute them before Lazar is killed, in order not to watch their beloved leader die), with twelve years old prince. Serbian queen, Lazars wife, Milica, accepted to marry one of her many daughters, Olivera, to Bajazit, the new Ottoman ruler, in order to secure peace. Even though Olivera's uterus was destroyed on purpose so that she can't have children, she became the most beloved Bajazit's wife. Later on, Lazar's son, Stefan, accepted certain personal vassal obligations to Bajazit, which stopped once Bajazit was killed.
[14] Muslims would choose the smartest and physically strongest Serbian male children and take them away to delete their memories and turn them into the best and most cruel Muslim soldiers, Yanichari. They were forbidden to have families and were often sent back to torture their own nation. The most famous of those soldiers is Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic, a Serb from Bosnia that did not forget his origin and for long time was the second most important person in the Ottoman Empire during the region of Suleiman the Great.
[15] Those songs are still usually retold by grandparents to their grandchildren.
[16] This tower still stands in Niš. Originally it had 952 skulls; today 58 are still left in the tower.
[17] Term "Kosovo" in Serbian is often used just to describe this particular battle.
[18] Central mosque in Prizren; it was built out of stone of St. Archangels monastery.
[19] Those statistics are since June 1999 until February 2008. Only during January 2009 there were 6 registered robberies of SPC property.
[20] An old Serbian capital.
[21] The wife of the current Serbian president is a nun in this monastery. The following story was told to me by the nuns. This monastery is separated from the Albanian community that lives next to it by a huge wall that was recently built and financed by the nuns due to daily attacks and provocations.
[22] Serbian Orthodox Church has internationally recognized autonomy in its own affairs and over its property. It is strongly against Kosovo independence and all territory under its jurisdiction is de facto under control of Serbian state.
Serbia is the only country in Europe whose center of cultural and historical identity declared to be another country and even received some recognition and support.
This conflict raised many questions throughout the world and became a popular discussion topic. Yet, a Serbian view on it is very rarely heard and explained in the west. As one of many Serbs whose family was forced to leave Kosovo, though mine moved out long time ago, I developed a special interest in the subject.
Explaining a conflict that lasts for centuries is a very hard task. I will try to give a deeper insight into the Serbian side of the story, hoping that it will shine some light on the very complex cultural, social and historical development of the ongoing problem. In complex regions where historical flows created a current situation, it is unjust to think that anything can be understood, explained or solved without in-depth knowledge of history. In fact, foreign "advisors" who had no real knowledge of the region but had enough influence to decide upon its future, always proved to be very good problem makers.
Going deep into history and cultural science is my favorite hobby, but in case of Kosovo it is an impossible task. Its history and cultural relations are just as complex as those of Jerusalem or Rome. Writing its past in a summary is not only impossible, but for sure it wouldn't be fair to the generations that lived on this territory for centuries nor to the history itself. Writing about Kosovo and not including some historical background is like writing about France and forgetting to mention Paris. Therefore in this, first part, I will describe overall importance of Kosovo for Serbian identity, its older history and cultural heritage. Second chapter will deal with issue of uncontrolled immigration that created Kosovo's today's demographic picture and the question of war crimes and role of Miloševic.
Third chapter will be about present day life of ordinary people. Fourth chapter will be about legal questions concerning independence issue and my view of importance of compromise in order to reach a lasting solution.
I am writing this article with the hope that it will bring more understanding to the region that really needs it. I do hope that the future of Serbia and Kosovo is where it belongs historically, geographically and in every other way - in Europe. But Europe needs to show more understanding for this serious problem. It needs to listen to all sides and push them to the compromise; unilateral solutions never brought an end to any conflict in the world.
History and cultural heritage
When it comes to Kosovo, the USA ambassador said that for them the history of the Balkans starts in the 1990s and with Milosevic. For Iraqis, perhaps, the American history starts with one Bush and ends with another. But we all know that nothing in the real world is black and white like in old cowboy movies. We all should know by now that the bad guys from those same movies aren't the Indians.
Kosovo is the heart of Serbia. That sentence has much more meaning than being just another phrase. The Serbian state was born in Kosovo, it was raised in Kosovo and was very connected to it at all times. It's not only Kosovo as a territory (1) that matters, but its meaning; a civilization and culture created by one nation which is connected to "Kosovo" as a metaphysical term. It is the soul of a nation and its country. Serbia was and is still creating itself in Kosovo, starting from the early middle ages until today. Kosovo is indispensable for Serbia just as Rome was for the Roman Empire, Paris for France and Israel for Jews. It needs to be emphasized that Kosovo's exact borders or territorial scope aren't the most important in the complexity of its meaning.
In the past the term Kosovo was used only for a big field and territory around it, less than one fourth of what we today consider to be "Kosovo". The south of today's "Kosovo" was known as "Metohia" since ancient times (2). Metoh is a Greek word, meaning land of the church. During centuries of Serbian rule, it became a tradition that every king or nobleman builds a monastery or a church in "old Serbia". Religious buildings were centers of art, culture and education; they were the beating heart of the nation. Today in Kosovo and Metohia there are 1.996 churches or other important Serbian monuments on a territory roughly the size of greater Rome (3).
Most of those monuments are from the middle ages (4), many are protected as UNESCO World Heritage (Gracanica, Decani, Holy Virgine of Ljeviš etc). Their beauty, their historical, cultural and emotional importance for Serbs, but also for the world is indescribable. The most important monasteries are considered to be in line with the most significant European art works of the time. They are a true miracle of human hand and God's presence - A piece of Heaven on Earth. Whenever a church or monastery was built, it was considered a basic deed and obligation of its founder to give it a certain amount of funds, including the territory.
In Metohia (roughly 1/2 of Kosovo) between 80 and 90 % of the territory was officially owned by the Serbian Orthodox Church - until 1946 when the Communists decided to "nationalize" (read: steal) all of its property together with the property of all the richest Serbs and to give it to poor Albanians, mostly refuges from Albania. In all eastern European countries property that was taken away in this kind of manner was given back to its original owners or their ancestors during the 1990s. But not in Kosovo. The historical importance of Kosovo can also be seen by the fact that most of the Serbian capital cities in history were placed in Kosovo. The first one from the 9th century, Ras, also part of UNESCO heritage, is placed on Kosovo's administrative border with Serbia. Some of those cities were the biggest capitals of Middle Age Europe and important centers of European civilization at the time (Novo Brdo, Priština, Prizren).
When Serbia was one of the most powerful and among richest countries in Europe (5) - in 1389, a Muslim invasion from Asia Minor followed. Serbian noblemen understood that no one else but them in whole Europe could stop, what they saw as a threat to Christianity. They decided to sacrifice (6) and to lead a huge defending crusade led by "Emperor Lazar Hrebeljanovic (7).
The legend says that Lazar was offered by God a choice between "a kingdom in Heaven" and "kingdom on Earth". Lazar decided to become a martyr gaining the most important title of all: defender of Christianity, a Gods soldier. It was decided that the battle would happen in the heart of Serbia - Kosovo field. To show his obedience to God Lazar built a small church on the field (8) and, as the legend says, ordered that its foundations are made out of the most expensive materials; silk and silver (9). Lazar requested that each soldier is blessed by priest before the battle in front of this church. The fight that happened became an important part of Serbian religion. Many of the soldiers and nobleman that took part in it became Serbian saints, Lazar being one of most important saints in Serbian religion today. For Serbian nation, story about Lazar and his soldiers grew to the level of biblical importance.
Lazar did not gather the army in the common way for that time; instead he sent a curse that "whoever is a Serb or has a Serbian blood in him and does not come to fight at Kosovo", for Serbia and Christianity, should not have any luck in whatever business; should die in greatest misery and "rotten"; same thing should happen to all of his posterity. Curses had huge influence in the Middle Ages, but this one is seen as everlasting call to Christians and Serbs, and many take it seriously even today. Legends speak of soldiers who came to fight when the battle was already over, but attacked the retreating Muslim army anyway even though it was equal to the suicide; servants who were ordered by Lazar to stay in the castle didn't obey their orders and went to fight because "they couldn't resist their heart".
However, Milos Obilic, a famous hero of the time, was falsely accused of betrayal. Allegedly he was seen talking to Muslim delegation that offered him huge amount of gold and silver to change the side. Lazar saw him as another sign of God, as his own Judas; therefore he decided to forgive him on the eve of the battle and even reward him with golden cup, drinking for his health. Miloš responded angrily, swearing to God and giving his word that he will personally kill Murat, the Muslim Emperor, to prove his loyalty. At the beginning of the battle Miloš surrendered to the Muslims, and as a known hero, was asked to kiss his foot of Murat, proving his obedience. Instead, he took a poisoned knife and killed the Emperor. He was caught immediately and beheaded. When Lazar was captured and brought to the dying Murat, he saw Miloš's head that was put on the pile. In chains, seconds before his head was cut off, Lazar proclaimed a victory - a moral and spiritual one (10).
More than two thirds of all Serbian men (11), including the Serbian king and most of the noblemen, died in the horrifying battle that is seen as a milestone of Serbian history, mentality and national being. The Muslim army suffered severe loses as well. The invasion was stopped, the bells of the Notre Dame in Paris and those of the cathedrals in Venice and Milan celebrated Christian victory for days (12). After the Muslim army retreated, it came back to Serbia only 70 years later.
After the Kosovo battle a seed of renaissance and humanism was already felt in dying Serbia, before it appeared in Italy. The new Serbian prince, Lazars son, a child at the time of the battle, wrote poems with love as its theme. But when the Muslims came back (13), there wasn't a man left in Serbia to fight them. The Golden Centuries of the Serbian state were over, fallen in the name of Christianity and Europe. And it was overthrown by the worst of the time, "barbarians", wild Asian tribes (mostly Turkish and Mongol) who were destroying and robbing everything on their way. As one Serbian monk wrote down: "The times came when the living started to envy those who have died". Serbian churches were robbed, blood tax was introduced (14), Serbs were banned from writing, schools and hospitals. To remember the nations' history and traditions, the Serbs created folk songs of very high literature value. Those songs incorporate a lot of historical information, advises and legends (15). Scholars compare them to Iliad and Odyssey. They were translated to German by Goethe and to Russian by Pushkin. Most of those songs are about the Kosovo battle and post battle life and fights. The cruelty of the Muslim rule was crowned by the tower that they built out of Serbian heads in city of Niš on the main road to Constantinople (16).
Serbs celebrate the day when the battle happened (St. Vitus day, 28th of June) as their most important holiday. Few hundred people run from Belgrade to Kosovo field every year to mark the anniversary. The Serbian nation divides its history and literature to "pre Kosovo (17)", "Kosovo" and "after Kosovo". It is a day when, old traditions say, at midnight all rivers in Kosovo become red for a second because that's how much Serbian blood was spilled on that ground. It is believed that a special sort of peony that grows in Kosovo today grew out of the blood - red one from Serbian, blue one from Muslim.
St. Vitus day is a day when Serbs should not be provoked due to high emotional sensitivity. Not too many people know that Gavrilo Princip killed France Ferdinand in 1914 in Sarajevo and gave the casus belli for First World War because the Austrian prince decided to have military exercises and to march through Serbian areas to demonstrate power over Serbs weakness on - 28th of June.
Importance of Kosovo for Serbian nation can be clearly seen even from every day common expressions, such as: "For him everything is flat - up to Kosovo" - used to describe someone's apathy or carelessness; "St. Vitus day will come again and we will see who has faith and who does not" - time will come when people's virtues will be tested again; similar to the Judgment day from the Bible, used when some injustice is done or when someone pretends to be a hero; Kosovo girl - girl with extremely bad luck, Obilic - symbol of heroism, "Marko came late to Kosovo" - when someone missed important opportunity etc.
S. Archangeli monastery.
The oldest and the nicest mosque (18), one of rare Muslim monuments in Kosovo, was built during the 16th century out of stone of a destructed Serbian monastery nearby. Today all the Serbian churches and monasteries are under direct jurisdiction of the Serbian Orthodox Church (SPC) with special status. If we imagine Kosovo being a state, then SPC is a state inside it. This has a long tradition in Serbian history - during many centuries of Muslim occupation and terror, a Serbian state did not exist. But the monasteries, the priests took over the role of state, led and took care of its people in peace and war, organized secret schools but also rebellions, always having a Kosovo story as central part in the national awareness and inspiration for many generations not to forget its roots but also to fight the invaders. Even today many Serbs traditionally believe its church more than its state and will turn to SPC for help and comfort, especially in the turbulent times. Serbian strongest cultural and social centers through Kosovo are all within monasteries.
Serbian national heritage in Kosovo is under constant attack; Albanians destroyed 156 Serbian churches and monasteries and robbed or vandalized almost twice that number since 1999 (19). These attacks are sometimes very organized, the most famous was on the 17th of March 2004 when in only one day 39 Serbian monasteries were attacked of which 35 were badly damaged and some were leveled to the ground. One of those monasteries was the Holy Virgine of Ljevis in the city of Prizren (20), a UNESCO protected site.
Podujevo
Thousands of international troops were watching this, only a few Italian and Romanian battalions reacted on time. The Seat of the Serbian church organization, a spiritual center often called "the Serbian Vatican", Patriarchate of Pec, also UNESCO site and a female monastery, was under attack as well (21). The monastery is part of the Italian military sector; during riots in 2004 the Italian general told the nuns that he and his soldiers are aware of the importance of the site for Serbian and European civilization and that they will defend it with their lives if needed. Since that event, by the request of the Serbian Orthodox Church, Italian soldiers are dominant in the organizing of the defense and guarding of the Serbian cultural heritage throughout Kosovo.
Mitrovica
At the same time, Albanian politicians are fighting very hard to have the Serbian cultural heritage renamed to "Kosovo Cultural Heritage". These are the same people that organized its destruction. Their reasons are simple: control of territory (22) and remaining Serbs but also the income from tourists and Serbian pilgrims.
All important Serbian monasteries in Kosovo are under heavy military protection. In fact they look like real military bases. Before entering the monastery guests have to pass through special controls, checkpoints and registrations. The level of controls makes the entry to the cultural heritage site similar to the entry to a nuclear power plant elsewhere in the world. A good example is Monastery of St. Archangels near Prizren, another UNESCO heritage site, which was destroyed in 2004; I visited it in November 2008. There are more than 100 meters of protective military equipment in front of its gates, including the barricades on the river bank that is separating the land of the monastery from the main road. On the back of the monastery is a cliff and there are military installations and guards on top of it. A special approval from the monks is needed for entering. After getting military approval as well to pass a corridor of barb wires, barricades and several heavily armed vehicles, there is another checkpoint; passports are checked and have to be left at the military command office until departure; a special "red visitor card" is issued. Only then a new set of barb wires and iron gates in front of the monastery are opened.
In a bombed church
All this in the heart of Serbia. In the heart of Europe. Even more so, it seems to be silently supported by European politicians who blindly ignore the sad reality, proclaiming Kosovo to be their partner, a democratic and safe country. The level of democracy, freedom and safety in Kosovo can be easily measured. I believe that it is equal to the number of tanks and soldiers plus the length of barb wires needed to protect the cultural heritage sites.
Next chapters:
II. Problem of uncontrolled immigration
III. Genocide question and Milosevics rule
Note
[1] In today's borders it exists for less than 50 years.
[2] The official name of Kosovo in Serbian is Autonomous Province Kosovo and Metohia or shorter Kosmet.
[3] Kosovo has 10,800 sq km and less than two million inhabitants.
[4] Most of them were built between 10th and 14th century. Only one Serbian king that lived in 14th century, Milutin, built forty monasteries, one for each year of his rule (rumors add one wife per monastery as well).
[5] The Serbian Golden Ages roughly coincide to the Dark ages in the Western Europe, and vice versa.
[6] Serbian rulers were offered by Muslims to remain in power but to allow the Muslim army to enter and give a portion of gathered taxes to them.
[7] For some time Serbia was an Empire. However, Emperor Lazar was never an emperor and held a title of Prince, but because of his historical role the Serbian nation calls him Emperor.
[8] Its name was Samodreza, "Self standing", living on its own. It was destroyed several times by Muslims; its reconstruction was leveled to the ground several years ago.
[9] Symbolically putting his material wealth beneath the spiritual one. Silver that was found in Kosovo mines was foundation of Serbian century long richness; silver is a symbol of royal power. The church itself was small and built of stone.
[10] We do not know this for sure; I am not keeping only to the proven historical facts but describing the way that Kosovo fight is seen by the people, including its myths and legends that are often of high religious importance.
[11] There are no exact proves of number of neither victims nor number of soldiers engaged in combat. Historians claim that proportion was 3:1 in favor of the Muslims, regardless what the exact numbers are. For Serbs coming back from the battle alive was seen by many as an act of betrayal. A symbol of betrayal for Serbs is Vuk Brankovic, nobleman who survived the battle and did not accept a rule of Lazars wife after it, but in fact fought very bravely and few decades later died in Ottoman prison.
[12] It was and is believed that without the Serbian sacrifice Muslim soldiers would come to the doors of Paris and Rome.
[13] This article is simplified in order to give very basic insight to history. In reality during those 70 years the relations between Serbia and Ottoman Empire were very complex. Serbia was left without a king and without most of its nobility (captured nobleman begged Ottoman Emperor to execute them before Lazar is killed, in order not to watch their beloved leader die), with twelve years old prince. Serbian queen, Lazars wife, Milica, accepted to marry one of her many daughters, Olivera, to Bajazit, the new Ottoman ruler, in order to secure peace. Even though Olivera's uterus was destroyed on purpose so that she can't have children, she became the most beloved Bajazit's wife. Later on, Lazar's son, Stefan, accepted certain personal vassal obligations to Bajazit, which stopped once Bajazit was killed.
[14] Muslims would choose the smartest and physically strongest Serbian male children and take them away to delete their memories and turn them into the best and most cruel Muslim soldiers, Yanichari. They were forbidden to have families and were often sent back to torture their own nation. The most famous of those soldiers is Mehmed Pasa Sokolovic, a Serb from Bosnia that did not forget his origin and for long time was the second most important person in the Ottoman Empire during the region of Suleiman the Great.
[15] Those songs are still usually retold by grandparents to their grandchildren.
[16] This tower still stands in Niš. Originally it had 952 skulls; today 58 are still left in the tower.
[17] Term "Kosovo" in Serbian is often used just to describe this particular battle.
[18] Central mosque in Prizren; it was built out of stone of St. Archangels monastery.
[19] Those statistics are since June 1999 until February 2008. Only during January 2009 there were 6 registered robberies of SPC property.
[20] An old Serbian capital.
[21] The wife of the current Serbian president is a nun in this monastery. The following story was told to me by the nuns. This monastery is separated from the Albanian community that lives next to it by a huge wall that was recently built and financed by the nuns due to daily attacks and provocations.
[22] Serbian Orthodox Church has internationally recognized autonomy in its own affairs and over its property. It is strongly against Kosovo independence and all territory under its jurisdiction is de facto under control of Serbian state.
Na put ali kao automehaničar
Bio bih već na putovanju, da sam na vreme sakupio tri tone dokumenata. Nedostaje mi još samo pola tone. Kada ću već biti u Beogradu za prvi maj, odlučio sam da ostanem kod kuće i za porodičnu slavu, Đurđevdan, tako da ćete do tada čitati kako teku moje pipreme za veliki put. Priprema dokumentacije je teža od samog putovanja a često je ispunjena i zanimljivim avanturama. Najlepši doček, pored počasne konzulke Filipina, Verica Milaković, koja bi trebalo da bude simbol diplomatskog opštenja, bio je u ambasadi Australije. Nikada nisam brže dobio vizu (i to na godinu dana!) niti sa više ljubaznosti, poštovanja i osmeha. Izuzetno šarmantna službenica u australijskoj ambasadi toliko me je očarala svojim osmehom i pokretima da mi se nije izlazilo iz njihovih prostorija.
Pravo iz ambasade sam otišao u Manik servis. Presvukao sam se u radnički konbinezon, zavrnuo rukave i utonuo u ulje. Vlada Potkonjak, moj mentor, obučava me već danima. Za sada najbolje znam kako da Ladu pokvarim. Naučio sam da uradim veliki i mali servis, da zamenim kočnice i još sjaset sitnica koje će mi veoma značiti. Ukoliko me Lada izda u nekoj nedođiji, poštovani čitaoci molim Vas da u moje ime odete do mog dragog mentora, inače veoma prijatnog mladog čoveka, i da mu zavrnete šiju.
Posle više sati u kombinezonu, prljav i garav, i dalje sam razmišljao o lepojki iz ambasade Australije. Trebalo je da odem do Pravnog fakulteta da podignem potvrdu o diplomiranju. Sa njenim osmehom u glavi i viziranim pasošem u garavoj ruci, zaputio sam se na Pravni. Tek kada sam video niz čudnih pogleda profesora i studenata, shvatio sam da nešto nije u redu. Zaboravio sam da se presvučem! Automehaničar u kombinezonu na pravnom, među ulickanim plavušama i profesorima u odelima izgleda kao slon u staklarskoj radnji! Jedna drugarica mi je prišla i počela da se smeje. Pitala me je da li sam ja to počeo da sakupljam materijal za doktorsku disertaciju iz uporednog prava...
Za daleki put poznavanje automobila jednako je bitno poznavanju prava države u koju se ide. Kada sam kupio Ladu Nivu, roditelji su svima pričali da sam doveo Ruskinju u kuću, pa me je nekoliko rođaka zvalo da čestita veridbu. A kupovina Lade Nive jeste slična veridbi sa Ruskinjom. Veoma je zahteva, traži održavanje, gomilu para, stalno nešto moraš da se petljaš oko nje ali zato i daje daleko više od drugih. Omogućava ti da se zaglaviš u mnogo daljoj nedođiji i u dubljem blatu nego sa bilo kojim drugim automobilom.
Sve je mehanika, pa je održavanje veoma specifično. Kako se zove uređaj kojima Rusi gledaju kroz zid? Prozor. Kako se rešava maglenje prozora? Tako što se stakla operu votkom, sto posto funkcioniše. Tačno je da alkohol skraćuje život, ali se bar vidi duplo više! Šta radiš kad nešto počne da lupa ili motor da zuji? Pustiš jače radio. Šta se radi sa delovima koji otpadnu usput? Baciš ih. Dobar savet glavu čuva.
Pravi test za Ladu Nivu su bila dva putovanja koja sam već uradio, jedno do Londona i nazad. Put do Londona je bio značajan i zbog toga što sam prvi put vozio levom stranom. Drugo putovanje je bilo po Kosmetu, uzduž i popreko, od Mitrovice do Šare preko Gnjilana, Prizrena i Peći. U sred zime, Albanci su me preklinjali da njihove automobile vadim iz jaruga. Na Šari smo Ladu jedva našli jer je bila zatrpana snegom. Ali Lada gura, nema za Ruskinju ni dovoljno zime, ni dovoljno votke. Iskreno sam je zavoleo. Vernost je za mene bitna osobina, pa još uvek nisam dozvolio da je niko drugi vozi.
Zgrožen onim što sam video, napisao sam tekst o Kosovu na engleskom za jedan italijanski magazin. Prvi deo je objavljen krajem marta i upravo su mi javili da je najčitaniji tekst u tom časopisu. Računam, ako je Lada mogla da preživi kosovsku zimu i okruženje, moći će da stigne i do Vladivostoka i nazad do Beograda. Najveći problem predstavlja deo puta od Irkutska na istok, pošto na ruti koju imam u planu ima oko hiljadu i nešto kilometara neasfaltiranog puta. Pratiću lokalno stanovništvo, pa kud idu svi drugi, koze, magarci i druge Lade, ići će i moja Lada Niva.
U pripremama za put mi pomaže rođaka iz Slovenije, Aleksandra Dvorančić. Ona će napraviti moj blog na kome ćete svakih nekoliko dana moći da pronalazite najsvežije informacije sa mog putovanja, mnoštvo fotografija, video i audio zapisa. To je vredna i visprena gimnazijalka avanturističkog duha kojoj ništa nije teško. Spoj tradicionalnog srpskog, domaćinskog obrazovanja i evropske širine, zaista mi je čast što se uključila u moj projekat.
U jednoj instituciji od koje sam očekivao pomoć u vidu pisma koje potvrđuje našu saradnju – optužili su me da sam špijun! Naime, pošto sam toliko zemalja obišao i pošto toliko tek planiram da obiđem, za to ne može postojati nikakvo drugo objašnjenje do toga da radim za neku tajnu obaveštajnu službu. A za čiju, čuće se. Neko razmišlja o tome koji su mogući problemi. Ja više volim da razmišljam o rešenjima. Možda se upravo u tome krije sva mudrost mog skromnog uspeha.
Moje pripreme za putovanje su većim delom ispunjene završavanjem započetih obaveza. Pomalo donkihotovski borim se protiv toga da matematičari tumače pravo i odlučuju o besedništvu, ne bi li Stradija u kojoj živimo barem malo krenula napred. Nadam se da će ta borba uroditi plodom i da Srećko Šojić neće sprovesti cenzuru na takmičenju iz besedništva koje se održava u utorak. Moje veliko putovanje prepuno je takve simbolike. U svakom trenutku nastojim da ne dopustim klaustofobiji, lenjosti, predrasudama i zastarelim shvatanjima da preovladaju. Želim da najbolje iz našeg društva predstavim u svetu ali i da širinu sveta dovedem kod nas.
www.viktorlazic.co.rs
Pravo iz ambasade sam otišao u Manik servis. Presvukao sam se u radnički konbinezon, zavrnuo rukave i utonuo u ulje. Vlada Potkonjak, moj mentor, obučava me već danima. Za sada najbolje znam kako da Ladu pokvarim. Naučio sam da uradim veliki i mali servis, da zamenim kočnice i još sjaset sitnica koje će mi veoma značiti. Ukoliko me Lada izda u nekoj nedođiji, poštovani čitaoci molim Vas da u moje ime odete do mog dragog mentora, inače veoma prijatnog mladog čoveka, i da mu zavrnete šiju.
Posle više sati u kombinezonu, prljav i garav, i dalje sam razmišljao o lepojki iz ambasade Australije. Trebalo je da odem do Pravnog fakulteta da podignem potvrdu o diplomiranju. Sa njenim osmehom u glavi i viziranim pasošem u garavoj ruci, zaputio sam se na Pravni. Tek kada sam video niz čudnih pogleda profesora i studenata, shvatio sam da nešto nije u redu. Zaboravio sam da se presvučem! Automehaničar u kombinezonu na pravnom, među ulickanim plavušama i profesorima u odelima izgleda kao slon u staklarskoj radnji! Jedna drugarica mi je prišla i počela da se smeje. Pitala me je da li sam ja to počeo da sakupljam materijal za doktorsku disertaciju iz uporednog prava...
Za daleki put poznavanje automobila jednako je bitno poznavanju prava države u koju se ide. Kada sam kupio Ladu Nivu, roditelji su svima pričali da sam doveo Ruskinju u kuću, pa me je nekoliko rođaka zvalo da čestita veridbu. A kupovina Lade Nive jeste slična veridbi sa Ruskinjom. Veoma je zahteva, traži održavanje, gomilu para, stalno nešto moraš da se petljaš oko nje ali zato i daje daleko više od drugih. Omogućava ti da se zaglaviš u mnogo daljoj nedođiji i u dubljem blatu nego sa bilo kojim drugim automobilom.
Sve je mehanika, pa je održavanje veoma specifično. Kako se zove uređaj kojima Rusi gledaju kroz zid? Prozor. Kako se rešava maglenje prozora? Tako što se stakla operu votkom, sto posto funkcioniše. Tačno je da alkohol skraćuje život, ali se bar vidi duplo više! Šta radiš kad nešto počne da lupa ili motor da zuji? Pustiš jače radio. Šta se radi sa delovima koji otpadnu usput? Baciš ih. Dobar savet glavu čuva.
Pravi test za Ladu Nivu su bila dva putovanja koja sam već uradio, jedno do Londona i nazad. Put do Londona je bio značajan i zbog toga što sam prvi put vozio levom stranom. Drugo putovanje je bilo po Kosmetu, uzduž i popreko, od Mitrovice do Šare preko Gnjilana, Prizrena i Peći. U sred zime, Albanci su me preklinjali da njihove automobile vadim iz jaruga. Na Šari smo Ladu jedva našli jer je bila zatrpana snegom. Ali Lada gura, nema za Ruskinju ni dovoljno zime, ni dovoljno votke. Iskreno sam je zavoleo. Vernost je za mene bitna osobina, pa još uvek nisam dozvolio da je niko drugi vozi.
Zgrožen onim što sam video, napisao sam tekst o Kosovu na engleskom za jedan italijanski magazin. Prvi deo je objavljen krajem marta i upravo su mi javili da je najčitaniji tekst u tom časopisu. Računam, ako je Lada mogla da preživi kosovsku zimu i okruženje, moći će da stigne i do Vladivostoka i nazad do Beograda. Najveći problem predstavlja deo puta od Irkutska na istok, pošto na ruti koju imam u planu ima oko hiljadu i nešto kilometara neasfaltiranog puta. Pratiću lokalno stanovništvo, pa kud idu svi drugi, koze, magarci i druge Lade, ići će i moja Lada Niva.
U pripremama za put mi pomaže rođaka iz Slovenije, Aleksandra Dvorančić. Ona će napraviti moj blog na kome ćete svakih nekoliko dana moći da pronalazite najsvežije informacije sa mog putovanja, mnoštvo fotografija, video i audio zapisa. To je vredna i visprena gimnazijalka avanturističkog duha kojoj ništa nije teško. Spoj tradicionalnog srpskog, domaćinskog obrazovanja i evropske širine, zaista mi je čast što se uključila u moj projekat.
U jednoj instituciji od koje sam očekivao pomoć u vidu pisma koje potvrđuje našu saradnju – optužili su me da sam špijun! Naime, pošto sam toliko zemalja obišao i pošto toliko tek planiram da obiđem, za to ne može postojati nikakvo drugo objašnjenje do toga da radim za neku tajnu obaveštajnu službu. A za čiju, čuće se. Neko razmišlja o tome koji su mogući problemi. Ja više volim da razmišljam o rešenjima. Možda se upravo u tome krije sva mudrost mog skromnog uspeha.
Moje pripreme za putovanje su većim delom ispunjene završavanjem započetih obaveza. Pomalo donkihotovski borim se protiv toga da matematičari tumače pravo i odlučuju o besedništvu, ne bi li Stradija u kojoj živimo barem malo krenula napred. Nadam se da će ta borba uroditi plodom i da Srećko Šojić neće sprovesti cenzuru na takmičenju iz besedništva koje se održava u utorak. Moje veliko putovanje prepuno je takve simbolike. U svakom trenutku nastojim da ne dopustim klaustofobiji, lenjosti, predrasudama i zastarelim shvatanjima da preovladaju. Želim da najbolje iz našeg društva predstavim u svetu ali i da širinu sveta dovedem kod nas.
www.viktorlazic.co.rs
nedelja, 26. april 2009
Ne lipši Srbine do šarene vize
Tekst koji je izašao 26.4.2009. u Press magazinu.
Najpoznatiji srpski avanturista Viktor Lazić, koji sa Pressmagazinom kreće na dvogodišnji put oko sveta, ima niz peripetija sa papirologijom - za taj poduhvat mora da pribavi još 55 viza i najmanje četiri pasoša
Gledam ovu moju „ladu" i mislim se da li da kupim prikolicu za put. Nemam puno stvari, nešto rezervnih delova i odeće. Međutim, ja sam Srbin, ponosni nosilac našeg, ponovo crvenkastog, pasoša. Razlika između jugoslovenskog crvenog i srpskog crvenog krije se u nekoliko tona dokumenata koji su neophodni da bi se upoznavao svet. Jugosloven je trebalo samo da mahne pasošem na granici, a Srbin, ako kojim slučajem i stigne do granice, tu istovara prikolicu, raspakuje šator i mirno čeka da stranci utvrde šta to nije u redu sa njim i sa njegovom zemljom.
Dobio sam 45 viza do sad, prešao barem 200 granica, neke prolazio bez problema, neke sa celodnevnim zadržavanjima. Promenio sam pet pasoša i, evo, načinjem šesti. Putovanje je svojevrsno obrazovanje, a šta će političari sa obrazovanom ruljom? Tada bi bilo mnogo teže izjednačiti Pariz sa parizerom.
Naša zemlja je u poslednje vreme jurila Evropsku uniju kao petao kad krene da juri ćurku da bi joj pokazao svoje muške kvalitete. U toj trci je zaboravila da produži bilateralne ugovore koji se odnose na Jugoslaviju i njene (plave) pasoše. Na osnovu tih ugovora odobrenje za ulazak u nekoliko država (npr. Kina, Rusija, Mongolija, Kirgizija, Azerbejdžan) mogao je da izdaje naš MUP u Ljermontovoj za jedan dan, uz naknadu od 330 dinara. Za srećne nosioce novog pasoša potrebna je daleko ozbiljnija papirologija, a cena vize je najmanje 50 evra. Pošto mnoge od ovih zemalja kod nas nemaju diplomatska predstavništva, to znači da se pasoš, zajedno sa prevedenim dokumentima, mora slati u Sofiju, Budimpeštu ili Beč. Kada sam bio primoran da izvadim novi pasoš, malo je nedostajalo da ga zafrljačim u lice nedužnoj službenici.
Naša birokratija je zasnovana na sistemu „ne lipši magare do zelene trave", pa me političari teše kako ću jednog dana ići bez viza u Evropu i, kad uvedu vize za Mesec, verovatno da će za Srbe biti viznih olakšica. U međuvremenu treba da sedim kod kuće, oni će putovati i za mene. Što se tiče majke Rusije, bezvizni režim koji su nam uveli će još ko zna koliko da čeka na našu ratifikaciju. Pa nismo ludi da to obavimo preko noći, pa da se ne upotrebi za političku kampanju! Velike reči, dela nigde.
Crnogorci, Albanci, Hrvati - svi prolaze bolje. Da li smo mi najgori? U ambasadama su me savetovali da sa sobom pored novog, za svaki slučaj, ponesem i Miloševićev plavi pasoš. Više se ceni. Jutros me je nasmejao vic kako su jedanput teroristi kidnapovali sve bitnije srpske političare i tražili deset miliona evra otkupa. Pretili su da će ih, u suprotnom, sve politi benzinom i zapaliti. Nema država novca, sve pokradeno, pa su se građani organizovali da sakupe priloge... neko dao litar, neko dva, neko pet, koliko može.
Ja bih, vala, pun rezervoar!
Prvo se prolazi tortura naših službenika. Za novi pasoš sam morao da ustanem u četiri ujutru da bih otišao da zakažem termin za taj dan. Čekaš, a ne znaš da li ćeš uopšte doći na red, na kraju zaboraviš i što si došao. Kad dočekaš ono što ne znaš šta je, kao u Kafkinom „Procesu", sav sijaš od sreće. Gledam, ljudi došli sa ćebadima, termosima, kampuju. Jeee, u sedam ujutru sam dobio cedulju da ću moći da čekam naredni red u pet po podne. U zemlji Srbiji to je jednako dobitku na lotou.
Posle višednevnog obilaska naših institucija, prelazim na ambasade. Prepuna mi je kuća kojekakvih dokumenata, potvrda, računa.
Za početak mi treba samo osam ili devet viza. Do kraja putovanja više od 55. Najmanje četiri pasoša. Kod nas ne postoje „dodatni listovi" za pasoš, dobijanje nove putne isprave u inostranstvu je izuzetno otežano ukoliko u nekoj državi nemate registrovano prebivalište duže od tri meseca... Kad sam već Srbin, što ne bih ostao kod kuće?! Putovaću preko svojih demokratski izabranih predstavnika, luksuznije, duže i dalje nego što sam sanjao...
Najgori su u ambasadi Slovenije
Mnogo se nauči o zemlji na osnovu njihovih službenika. Zauvek ću pamtiti ljubaznost ljudi u konzulatima Filipina i Irske, ambasadama Malezije, Kine, Japana, Indonezije, čak i SAD. Nisam ni slutio da je najgore ophođenje prema našim građanima u ambasadi Slovenije. Žena za šalterom se brecala na sve redom. Dokumenta koja joj nisu bila potrebna bacala je strankama u lice kao psima. Iako imam besprekornu dokumentaciju, smatrala je da ne treba da budem u Sloveniji više od 15 dana, nije joj jasno šta bih duže tamo radio.
Možda je u pravu. Prođe čovek Sloveniju za dva sata. To što tamo imam bliske rođake, koji su mojoj majci u detinjstvu spasli život, nije dovoljno. Rekao sam im da sam profesionalni turistički vodič, da me zanima da obiđem njihove znamenitosti, možda nekom prilikom budem vodio ture kroz Sloveniju. Ali, prema rečima službenice, za to je potrebna posebna viza. Sa ovom, valjda, mogu samo da budem kod rođaka u kući i ne smem da izlazim napolje?!
Viktor Lazić
Najpoznatiji srpski avanturista Viktor Lazić, koji sa Pressmagazinom kreće na dvogodišnji put oko sveta, ima niz peripetija sa papirologijom - za taj poduhvat mora da pribavi još 55 viza i najmanje četiri pasoša
Gledam ovu moju „ladu" i mislim se da li da kupim prikolicu za put. Nemam puno stvari, nešto rezervnih delova i odeće. Međutim, ja sam Srbin, ponosni nosilac našeg, ponovo crvenkastog, pasoša. Razlika između jugoslovenskog crvenog i srpskog crvenog krije se u nekoliko tona dokumenata koji su neophodni da bi se upoznavao svet. Jugosloven je trebalo samo da mahne pasošem na granici, a Srbin, ako kojim slučajem i stigne do granice, tu istovara prikolicu, raspakuje šator i mirno čeka da stranci utvrde šta to nije u redu sa njim i sa njegovom zemljom.
Dobio sam 45 viza do sad, prešao barem 200 granica, neke prolazio bez problema, neke sa celodnevnim zadržavanjima. Promenio sam pet pasoša i, evo, načinjem šesti. Putovanje je svojevrsno obrazovanje, a šta će političari sa obrazovanom ruljom? Tada bi bilo mnogo teže izjednačiti Pariz sa parizerom.
Naša zemlja je u poslednje vreme jurila Evropsku uniju kao petao kad krene da juri ćurku da bi joj pokazao svoje muške kvalitete. U toj trci je zaboravila da produži bilateralne ugovore koji se odnose na Jugoslaviju i njene (plave) pasoše. Na osnovu tih ugovora odobrenje za ulazak u nekoliko država (npr. Kina, Rusija, Mongolija, Kirgizija, Azerbejdžan) mogao je da izdaje naš MUP u Ljermontovoj za jedan dan, uz naknadu od 330 dinara. Za srećne nosioce novog pasoša potrebna je daleko ozbiljnija papirologija, a cena vize je najmanje 50 evra. Pošto mnoge od ovih zemalja kod nas nemaju diplomatska predstavništva, to znači da se pasoš, zajedno sa prevedenim dokumentima, mora slati u Sofiju, Budimpeštu ili Beč. Kada sam bio primoran da izvadim novi pasoš, malo je nedostajalo da ga zafrljačim u lice nedužnoj službenici.
Naša birokratija je zasnovana na sistemu „ne lipši magare do zelene trave", pa me političari teše kako ću jednog dana ići bez viza u Evropu i, kad uvedu vize za Mesec, verovatno da će za Srbe biti viznih olakšica. U međuvremenu treba da sedim kod kuće, oni će putovati i za mene. Što se tiče majke Rusije, bezvizni režim koji su nam uveli će još ko zna koliko da čeka na našu ratifikaciju. Pa nismo ludi da to obavimo preko noći, pa da se ne upotrebi za političku kampanju! Velike reči, dela nigde.
Crnogorci, Albanci, Hrvati - svi prolaze bolje. Da li smo mi najgori? U ambasadama su me savetovali da sa sobom pored novog, za svaki slučaj, ponesem i Miloševićev plavi pasoš. Više se ceni. Jutros me je nasmejao vic kako su jedanput teroristi kidnapovali sve bitnije srpske političare i tražili deset miliona evra otkupa. Pretili su da će ih, u suprotnom, sve politi benzinom i zapaliti. Nema država novca, sve pokradeno, pa su se građani organizovali da sakupe priloge... neko dao litar, neko dva, neko pet, koliko može.
Ja bih, vala, pun rezervoar!
Prvo se prolazi tortura naših službenika. Za novi pasoš sam morao da ustanem u četiri ujutru da bih otišao da zakažem termin za taj dan. Čekaš, a ne znaš da li ćeš uopšte doći na red, na kraju zaboraviš i što si došao. Kad dočekaš ono što ne znaš šta je, kao u Kafkinom „Procesu", sav sijaš od sreće. Gledam, ljudi došli sa ćebadima, termosima, kampuju. Jeee, u sedam ujutru sam dobio cedulju da ću moći da čekam naredni red u pet po podne. U zemlji Srbiji to je jednako dobitku na lotou.
Posle višednevnog obilaska naših institucija, prelazim na ambasade. Prepuna mi je kuća kojekakvih dokumenata, potvrda, računa.
Za početak mi treba samo osam ili devet viza. Do kraja putovanja više od 55. Najmanje četiri pasoša. Kod nas ne postoje „dodatni listovi" za pasoš, dobijanje nove putne isprave u inostranstvu je izuzetno otežano ukoliko u nekoj državi nemate registrovano prebivalište duže od tri meseca... Kad sam već Srbin, što ne bih ostao kod kuće?! Putovaću preko svojih demokratski izabranih predstavnika, luksuznije, duže i dalje nego što sam sanjao...
Najgori su u ambasadi Slovenije
Mnogo se nauči o zemlji na osnovu njihovih službenika. Zauvek ću pamtiti ljubaznost ljudi u konzulatima Filipina i Irske, ambasadama Malezije, Kine, Japana, Indonezije, čak i SAD. Nisam ni slutio da je najgore ophođenje prema našim građanima u ambasadi Slovenije. Žena za šalterom se brecala na sve redom. Dokumenta koja joj nisu bila potrebna bacala je strankama u lice kao psima. Iako imam besprekornu dokumentaciju, smatrala je da ne treba da budem u Sloveniji više od 15 dana, nije joj jasno šta bih duže tamo radio.
Možda je u pravu. Prođe čovek Sloveniju za dva sata. To što tamo imam bliske rođake, koji su mojoj majci u detinjstvu spasli život, nije dovoljno. Rekao sam im da sam profesionalni turistički vodič, da me zanima da obiđem njihove znamenitosti, možda nekom prilikom budem vodio ture kroz Sloveniju. Ali, prema rečima službenice, za to je potrebna posebna viza. Sa ovom, valjda, mogu samo da budem kod rođaka u kući i ne smem da izlazim napolje?!
Viktor Lazić
Ukratko o Viktoru
Viktor Lazić – dipl.pravnik, putopisac, licencirani turistički vodič, ovlašćeni prevodilac za engleski jezik i poliglota, ronilac, bibliofil, filatelista, numizmatičar i ko zna šta sve još, pisaće svake nedelje za Press sa svog putovanja oko sveta. Objavio je dve knjige a najnovija, S uma trag - o Sumatri, vulkanima, zemljotresima, piratima, ljudožderima i matrijarhatu izlazi početkom maja pre nego što se otisne na Veliki put, u izdanju izdavačke kuće Treći Trg,. Za više informacija pogledajte njegov sajt www.viktorlazic.co.rs.
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